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Product Overview

Description


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What is Beeswax?

Beeswax is the building material of the Honey Bee. It is produced from four pairs of glands situated under the abdomen of the worker bee. The beeswax is produced by the bees when they are gathering nectar and is used to build the honey comb in which the nectar is stored.




 

Why is most beeswax yellow?

Pure beeswax is white in colour but most people will be more familiar with yellow to orange coloured beeswax. The colour is due to natural staining from pollen and propolis gathered when the bees are producing the beeswax. The beeswax colour will vary depending on the type of nectar source that the bees are gathering.


 

How is beeswax produced commercially?

Beeswax is produced as a by-product of producing bulk honey from managed beehives in Apiaries. The beekeepers harvest the full combs of honey from the beehives and take them back to their processing facility (commonly called the Honey House). Here the beeswax cappings that the bees have sealed the full cells of honey with, are removed using an uncapping machine. This exposes the honey ready for extraction from the comb by use of a centrifugal extractor. The resulting raw cappings are separated from the honey and are then melted and cast into blocks, usually by the beekeeper. For every 1000 kgs of bulk honey produced, there is approx 18 kgs of crude cappings beeswax produced as a by-product.




 

Composition of Beeswax.

Beeswax is a complex substance consisting of Monoesters, Hydrocarbons, Diesters, Free Acids, Hydroxy Polyesters, Unidentified components, Hydroxy Monoesters, Triesters, Acid Polyesters, Acid Esters, Free Alcohols.


 

Shelf life of Beeswax.

Pure beeswax whether in blocks or Comb Foundations, has an almost indefinite shelf life if stored in cool dry conditions. Samples which are thousands of years old have been tested and found to have almost identical properties to freshly produced beeswax. It is not attacked by insects or wax moths (wax moths only attack beeswax containing impurities).


 

Beeswax Bloom.

This is a powdery appearance which naturally forms on the surface most beeswax after a period of time. The time it takes to appear depends on the storage conditions. If stored above 15 deg C, bloom will take some months to appear if at all. Bloom can be removed by warming the beeswax. Bloom has no detrimental effect on the beeswax. Comb foundations which have bloom on their surface are readily accepted by the bees with no effects.

 

 

Beeswax has several kinds according to color and form:

 























yellow beeswax block
white beeswax block
yellow beeswax pellet
white beeswax pellet
beeswax bar/cake
beeswax candle

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Certificate Available


 





























USDA Organic Certificate
ECOCERT Certificate
Halal Certificate
Certificate of inspection for import of products from organic production into the european community
Health Certificate
Veterinary Certificate
GMP certificate
Certificate of Origin

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(Please contact kabuagri@foxmail. com to get a copy of your requested certificate)


 



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AnalysisResultUnitsMethod
Acid Value*18.6-British Pharmacopoeia 2010 Beeswax Monograph
Ceresin,Paraffin and other waxes*Passed-British Pharmacopoeia 2010 Beeswax Monograph
Dropping Points*64British Pharmacopoeia 2010 Beeswax Monograph
Ester Values*75-British Pharmacopoeia 2010 Beeswax Monograph
Glycerol and other Polyhydride alcohols*Passed<0.5%-British Pharmacopoeia 2010 Beeswax Monograph
Ratio Number*4.0-British Pharmacopoeia 2010 Beeswax Monograph
Saponification Value*93-British Pharmacopoeia 2010 Beeswax Monograph

(Each batch comes with a Certificate of Analysis, performed by a certified analytical laboratory using the method’s set out in the British Pharmacopeia 2014 edition.
Certificates of analysis are also able to be provided to USP and Ph Eur specifications.)


 


Beeswax DIY PROJECTS


 


1. DIY Beeswax candle


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Ingredients


  • Beeswax (see instructions for amount needed)

  • Wicks

  • Glass jars (canning work great!)

  • Dedicated container, such as a #10 can, for melting the wax (because it's impossible to clean out afterwards!)


 



Instructions


  1. (A Note About Amounts: One pound of beeswax equals approximately 20 ounces in volume. We used one pound of beeswas pastilles. It filled the four small canning jars shown in the above photo. Thankfully, the recipe is very flexible, so if you have more or less beeswax, simply fill more or less containers!)

  2. Place the beeswax into your dedicated container/can. Place the can inside a stock pot filled half-full with water. Simmer over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally as it melts.

  3. In the meantime, prepare your jars and wicks.

  4. The goal is to get the wick to stay in the middle of the jar as we pour in the beeswax and it sets. You can accomplish this a variety of ways.

  5. It doesn't matter the method, as long as the wick stays in the center of the jar. We placed a dab of glue on the bottom of the wick to secure it to the bottom of the jar. Then we curled the wick around a small dowel to keep it from tipping over.

  6. Pour the melted beeswax into the jar, leaving one inch of room at the top. Set the jars aside and allow them to cool and set completely.

  7. Trim the wick, light, and enjoy your homemade beeswax candles!



 


2. DIY Lotion Bar


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Ingredients


  • 1.25 oz Beewax

  • 1.25 oz Coconut Oil 

  • 1.25 oz Shea Butter 

  • Essential oil of lavender, lemongrass, or spearmint 




Instructions


  1. Using a food scale, weigh out equal amounts of beeswax, coconut oil, and shea butter. You’ll have an easier time using beeswax pellets for measuring. If purchasing your beeswax from a local beekeeper, you’ll most likely get a bar or chunk of beeswax, which makes it a tad bit harder for measuring, but still very doable.

  2. I use one and a quarter ounces of beeswax, coconut oil, and shea butter for a decent sized batch. Using a double boiler, or a small saucepan and a large glass measuring bowl, melt beeswax, coconut oil, and shea butter until it turns to a liquid. Remove from heat and add ten drops of essential oil. Note: make sure if you use essential oils in the recipe that the essential oils you use are of high quality and are safe for external use on the skin.

  3. Pour into molds. You can use soap molds, silicone cupcake liners, or even fill a small parchment paper lined box. I used a plastic lid from a box of oval candles. The size just fits the palm of your hand. Whatever mold you use, make sure it’s something you can easily pop the hardened bars out of. Allow bars to harden overnight.

  4. Wipe out your measuring bowl while it’s still warm for easier cleaning and then wash with hot soapy water. I use the small amount of the lotion bars still clinging to the inside of the bowl to rub on my feet and elbows. Be sure to put socks on as the soles of your feet will be slippery until the lotion is all the way absorbed.



 2. Homemade drawer fresheners


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Ingredients



  • 5 ounces beeswax pellets 

  • essential oils 

    • Citrus Drawer Freshener: 10 drops mandarin essential oil, 10 drops grapefruit essential oil

    • Manly Drawer Freshener: 20 drops scotch pine essential oil



  • molds – silicone molds work well


Instructions



  1. Melt beeswax until liquid. (I used a double boiler on the stove, but you can also melt it in the microwave.)

  2. Add essential oils to your molds while beeswax is melting.

  3. Pour melted beeswax into molds.

  4. Allow to cool. I put mine in the freezer to make it easier to remove drawer fresheners from molds.

  5. Place in jute or cotton sachets (to protect drawers and clothing from wax/oil stains).

  6. Change every month or as needed.


Remember: These are reusable! Once the scent is gone simply chop or grate down the beeswax, melt, and start over.


 


 


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0.1967 s.